Single chainring (1x) drivetrains

What's everyone's thoughts, experiences, plans, etc. regarding the trend of single chainring (1x, 1-by) geared drivetrains?

I find that I have to sacrifice on the higher side of the gearing, despite having ridden my singlespeed with a tougher gear successfully on climbs, making me top out at around 28 MPH on pavement and about 23 MPH on bumpy ground. The 10t on SRAM cassettes have the advantage here.

I find that the different narrow-wide teeth designs have different chain retention effectiveness, being disappointed with RaceFace's NW design and how has a higher risk of dropping chains than SRAM X-Sync and Absolute Black's design. This design has me the most impressed, though I haven't tried it myself: http://garbaruk.com/single-oval/oval-bcd-mount/rc-melon-104bcd.html

I find that the talk about alloy vs steel cog/chainring materials doesn't really quite matter in terms of durability. On the cassettes I've worn out, using a HG-X testing tool, that not only is the top most 42t alloy cog worn, but so are the next 2 biggest 4130 cro-moly steel cogs (though to a lesser degree). I most definitely used that 42t cog more than them though. The material scientist in me says that it's all about the chain's stretch, and that swapping out the chain more regularly, or rotating between 3-4, would increase longevity in chainrings and cogs more than making the cog/chainring out of some even harder material.

I find that the longer the ride, and the more elevation climbed, especially if you aren't used to such mileage and climbing, the more you long for a granny gear and that FD back again. Your legs will die much sooner due to pushing that relatively tough granny gear you have, but on the bright side, you're forced to climb at a faster average speed.

I find that in my efforts spec'ing a brand new bike, the best overall value in trying to go 1x on a budget is to go with a Sunrace MX3 10spd 11-42t cassette ($60), XT M8000 GS Rear Derailleur ($65), either a decent 1x ring or a chain guide for use with other non-ramped rings (~$50), and using a Shimano 10 spd shifter and 104 bcd crank (hopefully already existing).

 

Not really interested. My prediction is it is a trend, ha hah! At best i think I would go 2x...
For as much as i get out each week, I like my low gears too dahm much!

 

I feel that a 1X makes me a stronger rider, there is no bailout gear, you got to man up and keep pedaling. My new ride for bikepacking is a 2X and I will keep it for the heavy loads when I need a lower gear.

A 1X is personal preference as most things cycling related.

 

I agree. Converted my Bronson to a 1x. Simplified cockpit. No bailout gear. My pivot is a 1x ... With taller gearing. In a few weeks, I won't notice the taller gearing. (I hope ) right now, I notice.

I have not dropped or broken a chain since I converted to 1x.

BUT, I don't do the monster rides that a lot of guys on this forum regularly post ... My usual ride is 2.5 hours, 20ish miles, 3kish of climbing. After 8k of climbing, would I wish for a spinner gear?

We will see at the end of January at 12 hour dealio

 

As far as chain retention goes, I've had no issues with dropped chains in the 1.5 yrs I've been riding 1x11 with Wolftooth and Absolute Black direct mount chainrings. No supplemental chain retention devices at all. Super impressed by this.

I recently switched out my 3x10 to a 1x11. I don't really feel like I'm giving anything up. On 3x10 I really tried not to use my small chainring, so typically pushed 32x36. Having 30x42 seems perfect now. Rode PCE last week on this and legs felt good at the end where I typically had to drop to the 24t chainring for the final climb.

For me the benefit really seems to be cleaning up the left side of the handlebar and making more room for dropper post controls.

 

I went to 1x10 and then recently to 1x1... I never missed the 2nd ring up front. If I go back to gears, it will definitely be the 1x10 setup again. 32 up front and 11-42 in the rear.

The 32x42 bailout gear was just that... A bailout gear. I made it up some long climbs (Harding) without ever touching the 42, which told me that it was there in a pinch, but not necessary on a regular basis. As far as the flats, 32x11 is more than enough...

 

I know Mikie witnessed how exhausted I was, riding 1x up San Juan Trail to cocktail rock, Golden Eagle's extra credit wall, and even that one ride at the Irvine Ranch Conservancy open day with Triple D. I was sitting my tired ass down at every convenience, after expending so much energy getting up the hill faster, just cause I couldn't go any slower really. I ran out of water much sooner than expected too. I ended up switching to a Tailwind-like drink formula to help with this since.

I expected to just get used to it, but I live in the middle of the valley where it's flat, taking 1 hr of driving in any direction, to get to any decent amount of climbing. Works well on what I ride normally, but such weaknesses show up when riding some place new.

Would be cool if the cluster of the 2 or 3 biggest cogs can be replaced at a fraction of the price, since that seems to be a trend of how 1x drivetrains wear out. Seeing how Shimano's 11spd cassette is like this, I wonder if they thought that far ahead.

 

I have had Raceface, E13 and Box NW chainrings and have never had problems with many of those. I have never dropped a chain since using a clutch as e allow us and a NW chainring.

I did get exhausted on the GE trail on my 1X. But I did not know about the 7 mile climb. I was running a 34t up front and 36 in the back and it took a serious toll on me but I made it. I have smaller chainrings but rarely use them.

 

Agree, lots of variables that may or may not affect each person's ability or willingness to ride 1x. Glad we have the choice (unless one's frame doesn't have a front der mount).

 

I am running a 1x10 setup and love the simplicity and look. I have a Raceface NW 32 up front and a OneUp 40 in back. I do spin out on road descents and fire road descents, but the trade off is worth it for me as my front mech never shifted smoothly. I'm still running 26 inch wheels so take that into consideration. I prefer the shifting feel of Shimano, but my next bike will likely have a 10/42 cassette to get a bit more range.

Oh and I do not use any chain retention besides a clutch rear mech and have not dropped chain that I can recall.

 

I demoed a bike last week with a SRAM 10-42 cassette and new XTR 11-spd derailleur and shifter. It worked quite well.

 

I've been running 1x10 on both of my bikes for about a year. Every once in a while I do miss the 24-36 that I used to have, but not that often. I love the simplicity of the 1X and really don't miss the top end. I can push over 20 mph on the flats, and if I'm going any faster than that, gravity is usually doing most of the work anyway. I doubt I will ever go back to a 2x or 3x on the mountain bike. You do have to work harder on the climbs, but I like that it forces me to just get stronger. Plus, after spending a few months on the single speed, anything lower than 32-20 feels easier.

 

We converted my wife's Niner EMD to 1x9 about 4 years ago....before it became the norm. She loves it. Rarely has she wished she had more climbing gear....and we are talking 9 spd with 32/11-34.

Dropped chains have been nil....and she is running a non-Type 2 X.0 derailluer.

I converted my Tallboy to 1x9, then 1x10 in 2011. 1x9 with a E13 SS Ring and MRP Guide.....threw the chain from time to time. 1x10 no guide, Race Face NW ring, Type 2 derailluer...only 1 thrown chain.

We converted over my wife's Tallboy late 2013....1x10 with a Wolftooth Direct mount No Drop ring....no issues.

Even with the 32t front rings, we have been able to climb everything we have ridden....that includes short steep punchy stuff in Moab and Gooseberry Mesa. Haven't really spun it out on the flats or DH's.....rarely pedal over 30 mph anyway.

 

I don't think it's a trend. It's a separation of need and expectation.
If the Fully Loop is your stomping ground and you are on the stronger side, 1x is more than enough. If Laguna is your backyard and you are intermediate or lower, you probably want that bail out. It's nice that folks have options. I like the fact that Shimano seems to view it that way- most suitable option vs. "this one is the best". IMO. Having said that, if you ride multiple areas and you only have one bike that you make do everything, like I do, sometimes you just have to make a decision.

I sacrifice a little climbing potential on my Sram XO, 1x11, but it only shows up a couple times a month. I went up Big Bend a this week and missed my gearing options low! I occasionally over pedal my gearing downhill, but I feel like it's negligible... lets say, pedaling down the Asphalt from the Luge.

My history is, Cannondale Rush, 3x9 (31lbs). 2011 Santa Cruz Heckler (28lbs), 3x9, converted to 2x9. 2015 Giant Anthem Adv Sx, 1x11 (27lbs).

3x is pretty much antique or entry level.

 

I went to a 34 front 36 rear back in April and saved a pound of weight in the process. I can clear most hills except for the very steepest (I have made Holy Jim and Dreaded, so it is not usually an issue until I get very tired). I like it because it wears me out at around mile 15 to 20, depending on the trail. When I do start to get tired I drop off very quickly though ... then again, I always get a great workout. I suppose I may eventually go 42 in the back, but can't imagine going smaller up front.

I did have issues with dropped chains when I first switched, but added the OneUp Components chain guide and it completely solved that issue.

 

I really wrestled with going to 1x or 2x, coming from a 3x. Went with a race face 30T NW and kept my 11-36. Don't think I'll go back . Dropped chain couple times in about a yr, no big deal. I have missed the couple granny gears I lost, a handful of times. I'm planning on going to the Praxis 11-40 cassette (10 spd). I can always play with the front ring for more top end speed, although I don't care so much about that. I think it has made me stronger (subjective). Lost a pound in wt. and love the simplicity, all R side shifting. No issues with cassette wear, I try to check chain wear regularly.
You can always go back to front rings if you want so its not irreversible!

 

I have XX 2x10 on my 13' Giant Anthem, and XX 1x11 on the Superfly.
The 1x is far superior on the rides I do.
I'a a faster rider on my Superfly (according to Strava). I know it is more then just the gearing, but a lighter "race" oriented gearing work on most of my rides.
The ability to change the front gear (down to 28 or 30) will convert your 1x into a "low gear" spinning machine.

Giant low gear: 26/36=0.722
Trek current: 32/42= 0.762
Trek potential: 28/42=0.667

 

I created a gear inch calculator in Excel because I enjoy geeking out on such things. I am currently riding a Trek Stache 9 29+ bike that cannot use a front derailleur, so it has a 30t chainring, and a 10-42 @11 speed cassette. By the number vs. a regular 29er with a 2x10 drivetrain with a 24/38 crankset and an 11-36 cassette, I have lost all of my first gear, and about half of a gear on the top end.

That's livable for my local trails (Tapia in Castaic), but for some of the longer rides I like to do occasionally, it can mean a rough day. The HTFU mantra only goes so far. And, while I find you do acclimate to more difficult gearing to some degree, it doesn't always just come down to being tough. I wish Trek had spec'd the X1 crankset with the 'Direct Mount' chainring system instead of the X1 crankset with the spider that will not accept a chainring smaller than 30t. The Direct Mount system can go as low as a 26t, which means I could just do a simple chainring swap for days when I will be on extended steep climbs IF I had that system.

Oh well. Sometimes you have to make choices, and I like so much else about this bike that I am willing to live with that limitation.

 

I don't really have a strong opinion on 1x vs 2x. Mostly I am amused by the speed at which everyone seems to be ditching the granny. But then a lot of MTB trends amuse me - I am a habitual late adopter as I tend to wear out what I have first while others guinea pig the new latest and greatest. Two things I did adopt early on were 1x, and dropper posts.

When I bought my Ibis in 2010 it came as 3x. The big ring came off immediately. The granny only came off after I found it to be pretty useless for what I needed it for - climbing steeper grades. There was too much torque and the rear wheel would often spin out on anything less than hero dirt. Not sure if the suspension design, setup, or different gearing was part of the issue but I don't recall having this issue on my old heckler. If I stayed in the middle ring I was able to maintain traction on these same trail sections just fine. Since I barely used the granny I took it off and have never looked back.

Not as bad as taking up single-speeding, but it takes a couple months to adjust to only having a middle ring. I still stop more to rest on climbs than I would spinning the granny gear. But I take lots of pics so I don't mind stopping, and I don't mind some hike a bike when I can no longer pedal up a grade. Weight savings and no FD to adjust are a bonus. Most importantly 1x works better for me when climbing techy sections of trail, which I get big satisfaction in cleaning. The middle ring forces you to carry momentum better - that and the slower cadence gives me better balance, and more jump from a single pedal stroke making it easier to use body english and adjust weight distribution to get up and over anything technical.

In granny gear I would be flailing around and bouncing off stuff because I am going too slow to hold a line. It is interesting that even in switching down to a 30T from 32T last year this has been more noticeable. Reports are that the new oval rings will solve all my problems. Failing that I'll just buy an e-bike

 

I don't think 1x is synonymous with no bailout/granny gear. A sub-30t front ring will create a plenty-low gear (IMO, for me). I say this after using 1x on everything from trail riding to bikepacking. Spinning out at under 30mph simply has not affected my ability to have fun or get the mileage I want. Yes, a FD will save a person some time on flat-ish terrain...not compelling enough for me to run one.

 

This... ^^^^ I wasn't worried about the low end when I switched. I was more concerned with losing the 38 up front. But, the only thing I really "lost" was the ability to chase roadies when I was in-between parks, like going from Whiting out to Blackstar.

The larger cogs, like the Wolftooth 42, are really low... Too low for most technical climbing, as evdog mentions above. I liked mine when it was on the bike, but I had to think of it as a true bailout when the legs and body just didn't want to spin anymore.

 

I run a 10sp 11-42 Response cassette and a 30T Garbaruk Melon. The 30/42 is low enough for pretty much everything I ride locally. I rarely spin out the 30/11. I'd have to be cruising at 25+ to spin out. Above 25mph, I'm usually coasting.

My 30/42 on my 29r is the same as a 36/26 on a 2x 10 speed setup. Whatever I can climb on my 2x...I can climb on the 1x. I do have a 28T ring on hand If I do go someplace where I know there will be lots of climbing. If you're going to ask what about top speed on the way down...if a hill requires me to use a 42/28 to get up...it'll take me to 30+ in seconds without pedaling on the way down.

I don't miss the 2x at all. Less weight, clutter, and quieter. Its all win for me.

e*13 has 10 and 11sp cassettes that are modular. It lets you replace parts of the cassette individually as they wear. The 10sp is 9-42 and 11sp is 9-44. They do require the XD driver though.

http://bythehive.com/e-thirteen/components/2016-trs-cassettes/

 

Did you make those names up? Seriously, I have never heard of either.

Forgot to mention quieter as a benefit of 1x

 

Response is a company out of Taiwan. Garbaruk is out of the Ukraine. Is it ok that I run stuff you've never heard of?

http://www.response-products.com/cassette.html#!prettyPhoto

http://garbaruk.com/

 

What made you go with the Garbaruk? Never heard of it until you mentioned it and I checked out their website and history...

 

No! You must conform to the herd or you will be ostracized.

Or worse, forced to comply with "The Rules."

 

I don't remember exactly how I came across them...but I went with their direct mount ring as they come in different offsets. I was getting the 42T backpedal chaindrop. It didn't really bother me...but what the heck why not. So I contacted them. They responded fairly quick. I made two orders from them and the parts made it to me in about two weeks. Installed the 30T GXP (47.7mm chainline) and no more backpedal chaindrop. They will do custom rings for you if you're looking for a non standard teeth count.

Doval 28T, Ridea SXX1 30T, Garbaruk Melon GXP 30T, stock XX1

 

*avoids Response cassette like plague* weight weenie part... $350...

 

Thanks... My Wolftooth 32 chainring is still pretty new. When it wears down, I'll probably try an oval ring, like the Garbaruk, Absolute Black, etc...

 

I thought there was a thread over on MTBr about them.