Rocky's New Bike Day!

What size wheels do you have? I have a set of Schwalbe Nobby Nics you're more than welcome to. 29x2.35.

 

It's a better ride, since you can run lower pressure. Even at your size you could drop to 26 psi or so. I run 18-20 psi in the back, 15 psi in the front. It's like having extra suspension!! But then, I'm only 163 lbs.

But, you do need to realize that the first time you try to set up tubeless, it will probably be a pain the a$$. You might get lucky...but you might not. The first time I set up a tubeless tire I wondered what all the fuss was about; took about 8 minutes.

The 2nd time, I cussed - and sweated - a lot.

But with practice comes something approaching perfection. Don't let a frustrating tubeless attempt get you down. Yell for help, one of us will step up.

 

Somewhere on this site is a thread about tubeless setup... And a guide written by @Mikie . It's the one I followed when I did it...

But, if you want a little extra protection, and don't want to make the jump to tubeless yet, there is always the slime tubes. They're heavier than normal tubes, but they do offer some of the same benefits as tubeless. I ran them for a couple years before I went tubeless... They will seal minor punctures similar to a tubeless setup.

 

And... I forgot. If you have thorns in your tire, the tire probably needs to come off, so you can check the inside of the tire. It's not so funny to put a new tube in and have the thorn that's hiding in there immediately pop the new tube. Ask @HBkites - he knows about that.

 

Thanks Ed! I'll pm you, I'm not exactly sure of the wheel size, the tire on it now is a 29x2.25. You guys are too generous! I'm glad you asked about the size. I thought there were 29s on the bike. When I picked up that tube at the bike store, I told the sales guy I was there for a tube for my bike. He grabs a 27.5. I tell him I think it's a 29. We go and look at a Rock Spring there. It was a s. with 27.5s I told him no I have a M/L I think it has 29s on it. I hadn't actually looked at the tire, I only eyeballed it, so I let him convince me to buy the wrong tube! I'm super lucky to have you guys, cause this guy sure isn't helping :/

 

The tire size is a dead giveaway....you have a 29 inch wheel. Tube size goes with the tire, and they've narrowed the ranges these days. With a 2.25" tire you'll get a tube that says 1.9 - 2.2 or something like that.

29 is the diameter; 2.25" is the width of the tire. It gets even more fun when they use those ridiculously irrelevant French numbers - metric.

 

Cool. I'm guessing the tires you have on there are lower end Schwalbes. The ones I have should be a little easier to set up tubeless.

 

Tons of videos out there, here's one:


Here's where a tubeless set up saved me from walking on today's ride:



This thing was a good 3mm wide. Sealed up instantly when I pulled it out back at home:

 

@-ROCKY- I just gotta give you huge props for being such a good listener. You are getting great advise here and learning from the experts as well as the mistakes that many of us have made. Lots of new guys try to argue instead of listen to the guys that are trying to help them. The attitude you have is going to make you a lot of good friends and ultimately save you money in the long run.

 

Damn! You're going all advanced on us already. I have 29 inch wheels, and I always carry a 27.5 tube, because they are smaller and lighter to pack. They stretch to fit a 29 wheel no problem... Well, you have to play with it a bit, but it goes on...

 

A 27.5 tube will work in a 29er. Just sayin'

May not be preferred, but it works fine.

Still, the guy was an idiot for selling you the wrong size tube when you bought the bike from them.

EDIT: Didn't read Steve's post first. That'll learn me...

 

Thanks @Runs with Scissors! Thanks @Cyclotourist! I've been looking at a lot of videos, they really help also.
@Voodoo Tom It's an awesome experience, and I totally realize how good I got it with you guys sharing your expertise and your experiences, that's nice of you to say, thank you.
@Faust29 yeah I know, check me out lol, I love this kind of stuff lol. Thanks for letting me know that tube stretches, it's already packed and ready!

 

Steps: This is assuming you have a Tubless Ready rim, a Tubeless Ready tire, an independant valve stem, and Stans Sealant, and I use Gorilla tape.

1. Remove tire
2. Remove tube.
3. Remove rim tape (if you use the traditional cloth tape)
4. Apply new rim tape. Personally, I use gorilla tape from Home Depot. This is to cover and realtively seal the spoke nipples, I do two wraps.
5. Cut hole for independant valve stem and install it. This is a valve stem that is a standalone with no tube. They have a larger base than the rim hole that seals against the inside of the rim valve hole when you tighten down the nut.
6. Install Tubeless Ready Tire on Tubless Ready Rim leaving a small section uninstalled to drop two of the Stans Cups of sealant in the tire at the 6 O'clock position.
7. Move uninstalled section to 12 O'Clock position and finish tire install.
8. Easiest to use air compressor to initially pump up tire enough to set tire beads. I often can use a floor pump.
9. Once beads have popped, floor pump to final pressure.
10. Hold wheel at 9 O'Clock and 3 O'Clock position like your steering a car and slosh sealant back and forth up on to both rim edges where tire contacts rim. Rotate wheel as you slosh sealant. Make full rotation. I usually lay wheel on plastic trash can to let sealant settle in mate point of tire and rim.
11. Then I install the wheel back on the bike. Check the tire pressure to make sure you are not losing pressure and have a good seal.

Don't learn the hard way like I did about low air pressure. I run 30 psi minimum until I know I am not losing air pressure.

Maintenance: Once a month pull wheel and listen to slosh to make sure you have plenty of sealant. Every other month pull valve core and add a small bottle of sealant (no breaking the tire bead), and repump up tire...

Sounds like a hassle at first, but you will never go back to tubes... imho...

 

Lol, it actually worked out. The 27.5 works with more applications, and is less to pack, so I would've been back at this tube anyway. Silver lining

 

Wow, step by step instructions! I'm going to be up all night putting this all together lol! Thank you @Mikie

 

2 cups of sealant? I've been getting away with murder. I mount the tire completely, pump it up dry. Seat the bead. Let out the air. Pull the valve core, add one small bottle of sealant (2 oz?) and call it good. Huh...

 

Sometimes it's very useful to put the tire on and inflate it without sealant, just to shape the tire to the rim. If it holds air without the sealant you've got a very good tire-rim combo. Floor pump should do the job. If you can't get it to pump up without the sealant, it'll be harder but still doable.

In that instance, take soapy water on a rag - not tons, just enough to wet the tire bead - and wipe it on around both sides of the tire at the bead. Pump like mad on your floor pump. When you hear several pops, you'll know it worked. Then spin the tire watching the thin line just outside the bead for any wobble. You don't want wobble.

After 24 hours, deflate the tire, remove the valve core, and inject the Stans. Reinstall the valve core, pump the tire back up with the floor pump, et voila!! You should be golden at that point.

EDIT: I type with detail, @herzalot types faster and I don't see it. His way is also valid.

 

I do it that way too now. I install the tire complete and add the Stan’s through the pulled valve stem core. But I still start with two bottles per tire. For me it’s collarbone insurance...

 

Does more sealant stop catastrophic flats?

Seems like a burped tire or a sidewall gash has nothing to do with the amount of Stans in your tire.

 

There are no guarantees. But I use 3-4 oz of Stans in my tires, and have little trouble with them. Unless a stupid plant gets froggy.

 

Ha! Collar bone insurance lol! Can I get 3 bottles in there!? So I even get more suspension lol!? Icing on the cake! Doesn't this make my tire heavier though?

 

No - I'm just saying that the kind of flats that would cause one to go OTB and break a collarbone has nothing to do with the amount of sealant in your tire.

 

Initial set up seems to use up more than 2 oz... the first two go towards just coating the tire, leaving nothing to slosh around. So the next two are the ones that stay as fluid in the cavity. YMMV.

 

True..that's more psi-dependent. Burps and gashes will defeat your sealant.

 

Compared to a tube, no. But the point of tubeless is not weight savings; it's more about running lower tire pressure without having to worry as much about pinch flats. it also improves the tire's gription (there's a technical term for ya), and rolling resistance is better also.

A 29er tube runs about 200 grams. 2 oz of sealant is 57 grams.

 

Skimping on Stans is a bad idea when you ride with @Mikie...

 

Interesting. Like I said, I think I've been getting away with something. I'll put more in tomorrow when I replace my rear tire. Especially since the Maxxis Minions do tend to weep a little. I do add sealant about once every two months or so. Not to jinx myself, but I haven't had a flat since I went tubeless in February 2016. Of course, one is more likely to get a flat if one rides one's bike.

 

And for me the other point of tubeless is that when I get slightly off trail and pick up 37 goathead thorns I need not worry. Leave em in or pluck em and spin the tire a few times to seal it and keep riding...

 

To me, that is THE reason to ride tubeless. But the other benefits are nice too, now that the tubeless ready tires have replaced the UST heavy-ass, non-compliant tires of the early tubeless days.

 

This pic just flat out wins the hottest award of hotness!!!!!!!!