Torque wrench

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by verdugist, Oct 20, 2015.



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  1. UPSed

    UPSed iMTB Hooligan

    Location:
    Simi Valley
    Name:
    Ed Bottorff
    Current Bike:
    Niner Jet 9 RDO
    Not sure how to explain this but I just drilled the head off the damaged screw then removed the remaining screws and pulled off the rotor. There was enough left of the damaged screw to grab with a pair of vice grips.
     
    verdugist and Runs with Scissors like this.
  2. MCB2K

    MCB2K Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    Name:
    Brian Kiggins
    Current Bike:
    Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc
    Perspective: You just bought a $1400 laptop... so you are going to balk at buying a $100 bag, and instead opt for the $20 one?

    Tools, like most things, fall in to the category of you get what you pay for. A torque wrench, if cared for will last a lifetime, and has a multitude of application on and off your bike.

    Cycling, and wrenching on your own, is not a cheap hobby.
     
  3. MCB2K

    MCB2K Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    Name:
    Brian Kiggins
    Current Bike:
    Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc
    There are 2 DIFFERENT hub specs... center lock and ISO (6 bolt).

    You listed the 2 specs, the first does not apply, ignore it.

    The 2nd gives you a range, which indicates that you should torque to AT LEAST the smaller number and NO MORE than the larger number.

    "The more you know".
     
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  4. mtnbikej

    mtnbikej J-Zilla

    Location:
    Orange
    Name:
    J M
    Current Bike:
    SC Chameleon SS, SC Hightower

    Not to mention....the Shimano Rotor has the torque spec on it.
     
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  5. doublewide

    doublewide iMTB Rockstah

    Name:
    Mark
    Current Bike:
    Ride Life Ride Giant
    Here, let me help...

    2og0PwG.gif
     
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  6. MCB2K

    MCB2K Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    Name:
    Brian Kiggins
    Current Bike:
    Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc
    Pick your MO
    H2_2.png
     
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  7. Redman

    Redman Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Cypress, Ca
    Name:
    Kevin
    Current Bike:
    Santa Cruz Nomad CC 27.5
    lol. everyone has an EDM in their garage.
     
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  8. verdugist

    verdugist Member

    Location:
    glendale, ca
    Name:
    Akhmani Boon eleh Ak
    Current Bike:
    Diamondback Overdrive Comp
    So I used a torx key set (multi torx with T25 key) to remove the T25's from the rotors. It made a "cracking" sound for most of them initially on the first counter-clockwise turn. I didn't want to use a drill to remove them and the screwdriver I had did not have enough leverage. And yes, I looked at the T25 key on the key set and it does look at least slightly damaged. Oh well, live and learn.

    So it was not the Torque wrench that caused the damage definitely. It was the removal operation. I was hoping to at least get both rotors installed by tonite so I could drop off bike at LBS to install XTs as I'm out of town for a few days starting Thurs.

    And to mtnbikej, yes I did see some torque rating on the rotor, but it was not 2-4 Nm (don't recall but it was something foreign to me). I torqued to 4 Nm on the installed Ice Tech.
     
    Mikie likes this.
  9. verdugist

    verdugist Member

    Location:
    glendale, ca
    Name:
    Akhmani Boon eleh Ak
    Current Bike:
    Diamondback Overdrive Comp
    I don't have a Dremel or EDM. Honestly, not as handy as some of you guys. But I figured installing rotors isn't rocket science. Why can't I use the solution presented in the YouTube video? Is it not a guaranteed removal? It's literally the exact same scenario. Sorry, but I've never dealt with a stripped fastener situation before. Maybe screws but not to this extent. This guy ain't coming out the normal way...
     
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  10. verdugist

    verdugist Member

    Location:
    glendale, ca
    Name:
    Akhmani Boon eleh Ak
    Current Bike:
    Diamondback Overdrive Comp
    Interesting attempt. Not sure how you would remove if it's screwed in via the threading on the bolt. In my case, it's the exact same as the video, 5 removed, 1 remaining.
     
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  11. Runs with Scissors

    Runs with Scissors iMTB Hooligan

    Location:
    West Anaheim
    Name:
    Mark Whitaker
    Current Bike:
    2015 Giant XTC Advanced 1 29er
    Drilling into the head works if you can drill normal to the surface. Then grab the remnant as Ed said.

    Anything else and you oblong the fastener hole. Sloppy holes are never good.

    Or remove all the spokes, toss out the hub and get a new one with center lock. Relace hub and voila! Good as new.
     
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  12. MCB2K

    MCB2K Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    Name:
    Brian Kiggins
    Current Bike:
    Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc
    Let's all spend his money! :D
     
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  13. MCB2K

    MCB2K Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    Name:
    Brian Kiggins
    Current Bike:
    Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc
  14. Luis

    Luis iMTB Addict

    Location:
    Sylmar
    Name:
    Luis
    Current Bike:
    Big Black 29er
    Here's my two cents worth:
    Try heating the head of the screw. I have a small heat gun to the the trick but I don't see why a cigarette lighter wouldn't work also. Doesn't have to be glowing red just hot to the touch. Tap the top of the bolt with a small hammer.
    If the screw is stripped try tapping in the next size torx bit, T27. Should be a nice snug fit.
    Also try rotating the rotor counterclockwise. It should move an inch or so with just the one stuck screw. This movement with sometimes break the screw loose.
    Lastly here is your last resort. Take a hacksaw or dremmel and carefully cut a slot and just use a flathead screwdriver.
     
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  15. verdugist

    verdugist Member

    Location:
    glendale, ca
    Name:
    Akhmani Boon eleh Ak
    Current Bike:
    Diamondback Overdrive Comp
    This sounds like an interesting alternative approach. I like trying the T27 bit but then I have a feeling I'll strip with that too.

    I have a feeling I have one last chance, like Mission Impossible Tom Cruise on the wire style. Thank God this is a cheap bike.

    But it's not as scary as this (how do you have the balls to do this Sh!t??!):

    http://mbaction.com/home-page/photo-of-the-day-the-scary-section

    btw, what does heating it do? I guess it makes it harder/softer???
     
    Mikie likes this.
  16. Luis

    Luis iMTB Addict

    Location:
    Sylmar
    Name:
    Luis
    Current Bike:
    Big Black 29er
    Those screws use blue locktite to keep them from coming loose. Heat and the shock from tapping on them helps break the bond. Most of the time. Sometimes dissimilar metals with also cause things to get stuck such as steel rotors and alloy screws. So it's not unlikely that the screw head is stuck on the rotor. That's why UPSed was able to cut off the screw head and just use vise grips to remove the screw threads out
     
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  17. verdugist

    verdugist Member

    Location:
    glendale, ca
    Name:
    Akhmani Boon eleh Ak
    Current Bike:
    Diamondback Overdrive Comp
    "and if that doesn't work. Get frustrated and hit something that you will immediately regret hitting because that will make a new problem to take focus off of this one."
    :Roflmao:Roflmao:Roflmao absolutely hilarious!

    http://www.ridemonkey.com/threads/removing-stuck-brake-rotor-screws-torx.234909/

    Ok, so another guy suggested the heat method on that thread as well. I don't know or have Liquid Wrench. At least I'm learning something here. Thanks a lot for all the feedback guys!

    wait, I have WD-40, is that not very similar to Liquid Wrench??
     
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  18. Luis

    Luis iMTB Addict

    Location:
    Sylmar
    Name:
    Luis
    Current Bike:
    Big Black 29er
    No it's not. WD40 is a lubricant. Liquid wrench is a penetrant. Doesn't make sense but trust me on that
     
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  19. MCB2K

    MCB2K Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    Name:
    Brian Kiggins
    Current Bike:
    Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc
    You said penetrant.... Rox shows up in 3... 2... 1... :laugh:
     
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  20. verdugist

    verdugist Member

    Location:
    glendale, ca
    Name:
    Akhmani Boon eleh Ak
    Current Bike:
    Diamondback Overdrive Comp
    Ok, here's the final update.

    Bad news: went to local hardware store and spent ~$27 on a butane lighter (supposedly stronger than a regular cigarette lighter) and a drill bit used to remove stripped screws/bolts.

    Total disaster.

    1) lighter never ignited (dork)
    2) used a cigarette type lighter to heat up area around the particular T25 torx in question
    3) used drill with reverse drill bit to make a nice round hole in the T25 head (more dork)

    Good news: thanks to whoever on this thread (I owe you a 6 pack of beer) recommended sawing a notch into the T25 head and then I use a putty knife (or plaster remover?) to unscrew the T25.

    So now I have both Ice Techs installed and torqued all 12 T25's to 4Nm. Bike will be going to LBS for XT install tomorrow (will be returning lighter and bit for refund as well).

    btw, do the XTs come with pads or do I need to purchase them separately?
     
    Mikie likes this.
  21. herzalot

    herzalot iMTB Hooligan

    Location:
    Laguna Beach
    Name:
    Chris
    Current Bike:
    '20 Pivot Firebird 29
    They come with pads...
     
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  22. Danimal

    Danimal iMTB Rockstah

    Location:
    Mission Viejo
    Name:
    Dan
    Current Bike:
    GG Trail Pistol!
    Hey Y'all, Thread resurrected!
    I decided I'm going to get a torque wrench to use on the bike. I've always just gone by feel, but it's time to move up!
    This thread is from 2015..so an old one...and would like thoughts on the best Value for for a torque wrench to use on the bike. Best Value doesn't mean the cheapest, but does the job for a fair price.
    Figure I'll get a chain checker at the same time... :thumbsup:
    Please chime in with your thoughts, options on the wrench , smack talk, derail...whatever..I'd like to see it.
     
  23. Mikie

    Mikie Admin/iMTB Hooligan

    Location:
    Lebec, California
    Name:
    Mikie Watson
    Current Bike:
    Santa Cruz Hightower/Yeti 5C
    I think even buying a torque wrench from Harbor Freight is better than guessing.

    The key is to try and find one that will be effective for the low end and make the high end torque values. Torque wrenches that handle heavy torque are not always as accurate at the low torque values.
    I have two Torque Wrenches. One for the low torques and one for big torque values.

    Also it would be great to find one that shows Inch Pounds as well as Newton Meters. I like NM better than inch pounds. But I like metric because it is so much easier for math. A lot of bike part manufacturers etch the NM value right on the part. Makes it so I don't have to convert since it is right on the tool. I also like a clicking torque wrench as compared to one with a drive beam deflection scale. These are all Craftsman Tools below. Unconditional replacement is a nice thing if Craftsman still does that. You can get Craftsman on Amazon.
    Check them out: https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Wrenches-Craftsman/s?rh=n:559968,p_89:Craftsman


    I Like this the best personally about $60 to $80 bucks
    51WftoAgQPL._AC_UL320_.jpg


    Drive beam deflection scale... Dislike, too bulky. About $30 bucks
    41mMsjzKK9L._AC_UL320_.jpg

    Fancy with Digi Click - has a Digital read out. About $110 bucks

    51H3rfYkTYL._AC_UL320_.jpg
     
  24. Danimal

    Danimal iMTB Rockstah

    Location:
    Mission Viejo
    Name:
    Dan
    Current Bike:
    GG Trail Pistol!
    Thanks! These look decent, but all my attachments are 1/4"...hhmmm...these 1/2" drive might be overkill for my needs, even with an adapter.
    Digital, naw.. just when I need it the battery would be dead!
     
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  25. mtnbikej

    mtnbikej J-Zilla

    Location:
    Orange
    Name:
    J M
    Current Bike:
    SC Chameleon SS, SC Hightower
    I had a $20 cheapie Harbor Frieght 1/4" drive.....worked well....but feels like something is falling apart on the inside.

    I have since upgraded to a nicer Husky from HD....no issues with it. Didn't cost an arm and a leg. Think it goes about 25-200 In/Lbs. Anything needing less torque than that, just goes by feel.
     
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  26. Luis

    Luis iMTB Addict

    Location:
    Sylmar
    Name:
    Luis
    Current Bike:
    Big Black 29er
    Thread resurrection!

    That’s some Rip Van Winkle action right there.

    I actually sounded kinda smart back then :laugh:;)
     
  27. riiz

    riiz Member

    Location:
    Redlands, CA
    Name:
    Eric
    Current Bike:
    Santa Cruz Heckler/Killmaleon
    https://www.tekton.com/1-4-inch-drive-click-torque-wrench-24320

    This is probably the best bang for the buck, costs a bit more than harbor freight, cheaper than the tool-truck but I would put it up against a Snap-On/Matco any day.

    Tekton's warranty is amazing if you need it too, snap a pic, upload it to a form on the website and they send out a new tool or the the parts to repair it, free of charge.

    I will never personally buy another craftsman torque wrench again, the 1/4" inch-pound model I have is garbage and you cant warranty it anymore, since Sears requires a receipt now.
     
  28. Danimal

    Danimal iMTB Rockstah

    Location:
    Mission Viejo
    Name:
    Dan
    Current Bike:
    GG Trail Pistol!
    This looks perfect. And has both nM and ft/lbs guage, not to long, covers a pretty good range. :thumbsup:
     
  29. Danimal

    Danimal iMTB Rockstah

    Location:
    Mission Viejo
    Name:
    Dan
    Current Bike:
    GG Trail Pistol!
    Thanks! Bought the Tekton and a chain checker through the imtbtrails Amazon link, and get it next day... :)

    The chain checker looked pretty cheap, but for $2.48 and free shipping figured what do I have to lose.. :Roflmao
     
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