Thule T2 1-1/4 to 2" Shank Fabrication

Cyclotourist

Cyclotourist

iMTB Hooligan
Question for those more versed in metallurgy & machining than I am: I want to convert my 1-1/4" T2 carrier into a 2" model (I want to add the extension to make it a four bike carrier, not just fit the 2" receiver, so it needs the stronger shank). In a perfect world, I could just buy the the bottom tubular steel piece from Thule and swap it out. But instead have to buy the entire assembly for $185.

To avoid that, it seems like I could instead buy two feet of 2" steel stock, cut it to length, drill some holes in for the parallelogram and hitch bolt , and throw on some rattle can paint. Would that work, or am I at risk at strewing several thousand dollars of fancy bike parts across the freeway?

What I have now (notice 1-1/4 shank welded onto bottom):
753-3709_4_1000.jpg


What I need (solid 2" shank entire way):
753-3581_2_1000.jpg


So, is this project doomed to fail, or do I have a sporting chance at success? I was looking at this chunk o' steel, would it be recommended or is there a better choice?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H9QV8Y/?tag=imtbtrails-20

Thoughts, tips, and warnings appreciated!
 
Go to a local trailer hitch shop or metal supply shop and ask for a piece. They use like 8-10 foot lengths and always have scraps around. Probably ~$5-10 and no shipping. For probably just a couple of bucks you could probably have them drill the holes as well. Just need your measurements ahead of time.
 
As rumpled stated, just go and do it yourself. We have done this a few times for customers to save them money or something more custom. Just make sure the stock is thick enough to support the extra weight.
 
The original model only uses 2" sq. with 1/8" wall. I have plenty of 1/4" wall in my yard. If you're not picky, we can cut off the old 1-1/4" and weld on a 2" piece. I'll even add on a gusset for peace of mind. However, my warranty ends where my driveway meets the street.

If you want to save the old adapter, we can just duplicate the 2" and transfer the hardware over. This will most likely require a cold IPA for proper calibration. I'm out in Santa Fe Springs most Saturdays.
 
Rumpled said:
Go to a local trailer hitch shop or metal supply shop and ask for a piece. They use like 8-10 foot lengths and always have scraps around. Probably ~$5-10 and no shipping. For probably just a couple of bucks you could probably have them drill the holes as well. Just need your measurements ahead of time.
Click to expand...
Good rec, didn't really consider that! You think they'll know what I'm asking for?
 
OTHRider said:
The original model only uses 2" sq. with 1/8" wall. I have plenty of 1/4" wall in my yard. If you're not picky, we can cut off the old 1-1/4" and weld on a 2" piece. I'll even add on a gusset for peace of mind. However, my warranty ends where my driveway meets the street.

If you want to save the old adapter, we can just duplicate the 2" and transfer the hardware over. This will most likely require a cold IPA for proper calibration. I'm out in Santa Fe Springs most Saturdays.
Click to expand...

Well now... we might have a date! I looked at the existing one and thought about just adding onto the existing piece, but fab'ing a new one seems best. I have access to this stuff:
Betty-IPA.png
 
mtnbikej said:
Keep in mind....I know my T2 has a nut welded on the inside that allows the pin to thread in.
Click to expand...
I wondered about that, didn't look to see if it was a nut or just threaded wall. I have an external bolting lock pin that I could use rather than the original one if necessary. I'm just really annoyed that Thule doesn't sell the shank itself and let end user swap it out as necessary. Would be easy-peasy!
 
Cyclotourist said:
I wondered about that, didn't look to see if it was a nut or just threaded wall. I have an external bolting lock pin that I could use rather than the original one if necessary. I'm just really annoyed that Thule doesn't sell the shank itself and let end user swap it out as necessary. Would be easy-peasy!
Click to expand...

You can get away with a thru pin on the 1 1/4" rack because it is generally a lighter duty rack.....once you bump up to the 2" especially with a 4 bike rack, the threaded pin works much better at helping to prevent movement between the rack/receiver.
 
mtnbikej said:
You can get away with a thru pin on the 1 1/4" rack because it is generally a lighter duty rack.....once you bump up to the 2" especially with a 4 bike rack, the threaded pin works much better at helping to prevent movement between the rack/receiver.
Click to expand...
10-4, understood. If you get a sec, would you mind measuring how far the lock-pin hole center is from the leading edge of the shank?
I want to see if it's the same distance as on the 1-1/4 insert.
30581885290_67ee478957.jpg
 
OTHRider said:
The original model only uses 2" sq. with 1/8" wall. I have plenty of 1/4" wall in my yard. If you're not picky, we can cut off the old 1-1/4" and weld on a 2" piece. I'll even add on a gusset for peace of mind. However, my warranty ends where my driveway meets the street.

If you want to save the old adapter, we can just duplicate the 2" and transfer the hardware over. This will most likely require a cold IPA for proper calibration. I'm out in Santa Fe Springs most Saturdays.
Click to expand...


this x100
 
Rumpled said:
Go to a local trailer hitch shop or metal supply shop and ask for a piece. They use like 8-10 foot lengths and always have scraps around. Probably ~$5-10 and no shipping. For probably just a couple of bucks you could probably have them drill the holes as well. Just need your measurements ahead of time.
Click to expand...
This is exactly what I did, 5 years later the rack is still going strong.

You don't want to mess with reducers. I tried them initially and they introduce a lot more sway. My rack does have some because I didn't bother to get the threaded nut welded in, but it is good enough and I could probably eliminate the play with a shim.
 
Well lookey what I have now!
30691177640_65afc0d204_c.jpg

This is 100% thanks to @OTHRider Duke, who words do not do justice! As many of the people I've met IRL through this site, just an amazing person who went out of his way to help me out! Long/Short: No easy way to do it, you have to simply buy the part from Thule or put the time and expertise into coming up with your own.

Stoked!

30648353650_8c05466580_c.jpg
 
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