Reverb Service

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by blixet, May 21, 2020.



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  1. blixet

    blixet Well-Known Member

    Location:
    San Gabriel Valley
    Name:
    Tom
    Current Bike:
    Bronson
    Have a couple of questions on the 50 hour service. Do I really need a bench vice with soft jaws? Looks like just about everything can be done with a bicycle stand clamp instead. The only thing I can see that it is really needed for is in removing the poppet housing base plate lock ring. Couldn't I just use two open end wrenches and be careful? I have a vice but it is at my in-laws right now because I was working on some things around that house. I can always go get it if it is really necessary.

    Another thing is on the brass keys. I haven't done anything in 5 yrs. to the reverb. It still works just fine other than a very slight wiggle side to side. So my guess that the keys will need to be replaced. Is there a way to find out the key diameter without disassembly and physically looking at the lines marked on the keys? There's a list of part numbers on the SRAM website for spare parts but it doesn't seem to identify the difference by model or size or whatever determines it. I'd rather have the right parts once I open it up rather than having to do it twice.

    Finally, from what I can tell by the service manual, the bleed for the 50 hour service is just at the remote lever even though the hose will be disconnected at the seat post. Is that all I need to do or should I go ahead and bleed the hose as well? Any other tips to make it go smoothly? It looks pretty easy as far as I can tell.

    I have gone way past the 400 hr service I am sure, but I am going to start with the easy 50 hour one just to see what it looks like before tearing the whole thing down. Probably do the 400 later this year assuming I continue to not have any problems with the dropper.
     
    DangerDirtyD and Old&InTheWay like this.
  2. littlewave

    littlewave Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Newport Beach
    Name:
    Brett
    Current Bike:
    Ibis Ripley LS
    I suppose you could use bike stand and wrenches but the flat on the poppet housing is stupid small. Cuidado.

    No way to tell size on brass keys without pulling apart. I think the 50 hour kit includes all possible key sizes.

    correct on 50 hour bleed, you don’t get to ifp so no new oil in post. Do you have any sag right now, or is post still solid? You’ll probably need to bleed remote since you’re disconnecting it.
     
    Old&InTheWay likes this.
  3. mtnbikej

    mtnbikej J-Zilla

    Location:
    Orange
    Name:
    J M
    Current Bike:
    SC Chameleon SS, SC Hightower
    The 50 hr is just a simple disassemble, clean and regrease.

    I actually like the 400 hr service kit....it pretty much replaces all the parts that have replacable orings. However you do have to be able to measure the IFP depth and bleed it. No special tools needed for either, although they do help.

    Brass keys are not expensive....I just order a set of each size, and sent back the ones I didn't need.

    I agree that a few of the wrench flats are pretty shallow....and it they haven't been loosened before, they are gonna be on the snug side.

    I always bleed the lever if I disconnect the hose.

    This a pretty thorough video for reference.....it's not in english, but it's easy to follow:

     
    HBkites likes this.
  4. blixet

    blixet Well-Known Member

    Location:
    San Gabriel Valley
    Name:
    Tom
    Current Bike:
    Bronson
    Thanks guys for the info. It is helpful. Since I only have a mm or two of play up and down, no real sag, and the same CW/CCW trying to rotate the seat, both barely noticeable, I think I'll just do the disassemble and clean 50 hr deal for now and reuse the same keys. That way I'll see what I have and can get the 400 hr kit and the correct keys later when I am ready to do the full service, assuming it comes out OK. I like the video, can see the value in the vice for the big service although he seems to just use wrenches on everything for taking it apart. I could probably get away without it for the short service but I think I'll go retrieve my vice anyway. Liking his torque technique. :) The teflon tape, blue locktite deal seems like a good idea, I'll save that one for later.
     
  5. HBkites

    HBkites Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Huntington Beach
    Name:
    Sharone
    Current Bike:
    Why S7, Revel Rascal, Spark RC
    Italian... I thought this is merica!
     
    mtnbikej likes this.
  6. blixet

    blixet Well-Known Member

    Location:
    San Gabriel Valley
    Name:
    Tom
    Current Bike:
    Bronson
    Got the 50 hr. service done today. Didn't know it was called 50 hr because that's how long it was going to take to do it as a rookie. OK, maybe a bit less. First issue is my 60 yr old snap ring pliers. Couldn't get them way down where ring is without a lot of finesse and then they wouldn't grab. Rather than take a half hour out of my life and drive over to Home Depot, I decided to stubborn it out and eventually with a lot of expletives flying and a set of picks that reach way down in and around and under and holding a flashlight in my mouth because it is pitch black down that tube, I got it. Not in any stinking half hr though.

    Having never been disassembled, it was a little b@#^%tch kitten to get the poppet plate off even with the soft jaws, especially with the useless soft jaws. Ended up using a couple of appropriate wrenches and viola. Meanwhile, later that day... got to the brass keys. Found a lying fool on the internet that said he had the exact same unit as me and found he had #3 keys. So, in advance, I purchased #3, #4 and #6 which oddly enough is in-between 3 and 4 in diameter. Well, the road to hell being paved with good intentions and all that, my keys are 2 @ #5 (which I conveniently assumed I would not need to bother buying) and 1 @ #4. WT 'ell mate? You mean they mix and match? Fool me once or twice, I broke out the calipers and measured the 5s at 2.66mm and the 4 at 2.65mm. OK, another oddity. Turns out my shiny new #6s weigh in at 2.66mm. So, since I live on the edge, I slapped those bad boys in, buttoned it up, performed the remote bleed and... Bingo! Totally doesn't work. Won't budge. Yeah, alright. Rebleed, no dice. Pull it out and apart again to see what I did wrong. Did I mention my snap ring pliers? Eff me.

    Blinding insight and quick trip to my neighbor's house and 3 minutes later had the right tool at the right time (eventually). Ring came out in maybe 6 seconds. Disassembly was easy the 2nd time around. Nothing glaring, slides up and down in the housing by hand easily, doesn't seem loose or binding or anything. Reinstall, rebleed, cross finger, well you probably know by now... same old, same old.

    OK, gotta be the bleed. Pull it out of the seat tube yet again. Bleed the entire line from stem to stern. Reinstall, bleed remote again for good luck. Rub the rabbit's foot, and now it's like buttah. Up, down smooth as you please. Bob's your uncle, eh what?

    Another half hour putting things away, cleaning the hydraulic fluid from my hair, the walls (by the way - that fluid doesn't seem to play nice with carbon bars, ended up with a pin head pimple next to where the remote bleed was sliding down and around and all over while I tried to keep it clean with my third hand.

    Next service, 2,000 hrs. Replace unit with Bike Yoke or PNW at that time instead. Now for a shower and a stiff drink. :thumbsup: Cheers!
     
  7. mtnbikej

    mtnbikej J-Zilla

    Location:
    Orange
    Name:
    J M
    Current Bike:
    SC Chameleon SS, SC Hightower
    All 3 keys should be the same.....so 3x #2 keys in your case.

    Follow the bleed directions....don't cut corners. I have found that in the past I have forgotten to turn the dropper speed back up after the bleed....this causes the post not to work. I have bled, bled, rebled only to realize the speed knob was a full slow.
     
    DangerDirtyD and blixet like this.
  8. blixet

    blixet Well-Known Member

    Location:
    San Gabriel Valley
    Name:
    Tom
    Current Bike:
    Bronson
    Other than there is no such thing as a #2 key, I agree. And I didn't cut corners, as the instructions say only to bleed the remote. That was the problem. It needed a full line bleed for some reason. Nothing really leaked out that I could see. I could kick myself because I knew I should have done it in the first place. Now I know. It has the connectamajig which does a good job of keeping things contained. I appreciate your experienced advice. Nothing like experience. My attempt at humor aside, I like this stuff. I was a service tech for a decade in another life. 10-12 in-home service calls a day on major appliances and nothing could slow me down or I was toast. I got really good at diagnostics at a glance. And always a way to get it done. After a while, the tricks of the trade are second nature. I can probably do the 50 hr service blindfolded now.

    I must say, the Reverb is in way better shape than new. Which says something about the 3rd world labor force that probably assembled this thing. 5 yrs of hard riding and it never had a major problem. All the little wiggle is gone. It moves up and down smoothly. Couldn't ask for more.
     
    DangerDirtyD likes this.
  9. mtnbikej

    mtnbikej J-Zilla

    Location:
    Orange
    Name:
    J M
    Current Bike:
    SC Chameleon SS, SC Hightower
    Now ya know.

    I found that the replacement bushings did a better job eliminating the wobble than the brass keys.
     
    DangerDirtyD likes this.
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