QR Questions

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by -ROCKY-, Nov 10, 2018.

  1. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    Hi all :D
    Ever since I pulled my rear wheel and put it back on I've felt like it hasn't been on exactly right. I feel some drag in the wheel. I thought it might be the disc, I adjusted the caliper. Today after a short ride I'm sure the wheel moved. My tire is making contact with the frame. I'm not exactly sure how the QR works, and the first time I pulled the wheel I took the QR apart. Any suggestions on what I can double check? Thanks a bunch guys.
     
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  2. bvader

    bvader Well-Known Member

    Location:
    HB
    Name:
    Mr. Brown
    1st put a little grease on the "cam" portion of the lever, that can get dry and make it feel like the lever is tighter than it really is.

    2nd bike on ground loosen newly greased lever loosen wiggle bike a bit and make sure it is settled correctly and with out too much side to side tourque tighten ... Wheel should be centered

    Then adjust brake calipers
     
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  3. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    Ok ok. Wish I could have a better idea of where to grease, but I think #2 is where I could be going wrong. I have been installing the wheel while the bike is upside down. And honestly the wheel looks crooked.
     
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  4. bvader

    bvader Well-Known Member

    Location:
    HB
    Name:
    Mr. Brown
    What brand quick release?

    Picture?

    Cam action or pull spring & teeth
     
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  5. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    Her are pics, sorry I can't find the brand name.

    IMG_20181110_222030.jpg

    IMG_20181110_221946.jpg

    IMG_20181110_222013.jpg
     
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  6. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    Hmm.. I know there are cone shaped springs on each side...???
     
  7. bvader

    bvader Well-Known Member

    Location:
    HB
    Name:
    Mr. Brown
    Right where the lever cam (the round part closest to the frame) touches the matching rounded surface grease that.

    Look at this...
    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/sram-x-9-stainless-steel-mtb-skewers-black

    In this pic ... Opposite end of lever from where it says sram... The round part where it makes contact with the matching thick black "bushing" grease that ... That is where the friction can build


    Yeah tire looks off center from pic ... Hard to tell ... Definitely loosen and let the wheel settle in upright.
     
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  8. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    I'll give it a shot I think this will help, thank you sir! :)
     
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  9. bvader

    bvader Well-Known Member

    Location:
    HB
    Name:
    Mr. Brown
    Np.
    Just a little grease work the lever a few times then wipe off excess
     
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  10. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    Alright. Is there any side to side adjusting with these?
     
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  11. bvader

    bvader Well-Known Member

    Location:
    HB
    Name:
    Mr. Brown
    No the slack is taken up evenly when you tighten. Make sure nothing in the way, springs setup the way in the pic, open the lever and back off the screw cap on QR a bit and let the wheel settle all the way up / in when bike upright ... Wheel should look centered.
    Then tighten
     
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  12. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    Ok. I think I've been tightening it wrong too. :thumbsdown:
     
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  13. BurnDawg

    BurnDawg Member

    Name:
    Bern
    It does look a litte off on one side. Loosening the quick release while the bike is on its wheels will help getting the axle into the dropouts.

    To keep your quick release from slipping make sure you close it tight enough. It’s a little tricky but once your wheel is settled in the dropouts and you’re sure it’s nice and centered, tighten the quick release nut (not the lever) until the quick release lever can be closed about 3/4 of the way with light pressure. The last 1/4 should require a bit more pressure and leave a slight indent in your palm as you press it all the way closed.
     
  14. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    Thanks BD!:thumbsup: It's really off. When I tightened, I tightened the lever, both at the same time, it wasn't that far off before. I'll take this into consideration also.
     
    Cyclotourist likes this.
  15. bvader

    bvader Well-Known Member

    Location:
    HB
    Name:
    Mr. Brown
    One other though if you adjusted the brake calioer when it was way off you are going to.need to loosen it up before you try to get the.wheel straight ... Then adjust the brake after the wheel is straight
     
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  16. herzalot

    herzalot iMTB Hooligan

    Location:
    Laguna Beach
    Name:
    Chris
    Current Bike:
    '15 Intense Tracer 275c DVOish
    Hey @-ROCKY- Just curious. Does/did it shift properly when you reinstalled it? If it was shifting properly before you removed the wheel, then you took off the wheel and reinstalled it wrong, it wouldn't shift properly because the cassette (gear cluster) would be misaligned.

    If the answer is yes, the shifting is way off, I am wondering if the end cap/spacer might have come off on the cassette side while the wheel was off.
     
  17. SnakeCharmer

    SnakeCharmer iMTB Addict

    Location:
    Crescenta Valley
    Name:
    Mike, aka "Snake"
    Current Bike:
    Vassago/Trek
    Ya gotta crank down a QR pretty darn tight so that it doesnt move.
     
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  18. herzalot

    herzalot iMTB Hooligan

    Location:
    Laguna Beach
    Name:
    Chris
    Current Bike:
    '15 Intense Tracer 275c DVOish
    Here's a basic how-to, so you get how the QR system is supposed to work. Adding the step in which you re-open and re-close the QR with the bike on the ground may help make sure it's completely in the dropouts and not leaning to one side or the other.



    As @bvader said, if you adjusted your brake caliper while the wheel was mis-aligned, you will need to loosen the caliper, install the wheel straight, then readjust and tighten down your calipers.

    Trick to re-aligning your brake caliper?
    1.) Loosen the caliper mounting bolts to the point where the caliper is loose.
    2.) Install the wheel using the process outlined above.
    3.) Spin the wheel a bit and squeeze the rear brake lever a few times. (Keep your fingers clear of the rotor).
    4.) Then give the lever a solid squeeze and while squeezing the brake lever, snug up the mounting bolts on the caliper. It should be close to centered if not perfect when you release the brake lever.
    5.) If so, hold the brake lever closed again and tighten the bolts the rest of the way.
    6.) If still rubbing, try again.
     
  19. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    Good morning. That's what prompted my ride yesterday, checking out the shifting. Yes it went through the gears, but not as smoothly. Thanks for the video herz, I haven't seen that one and videos sure help! :thumbsup:
     
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  20. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    Hi Snake, I had them pretty tight, ( I thought I did anyway) but I think they could use some grease first.
     
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  21. SnakeCharmer

    SnakeCharmer iMTB Addict

    Location:
    Crescenta Valley
    Name:
    Mike, aka "Snake"
    Current Bike:
    Vassago/Trek
    It takes a bit of force to lock them down when they are tight enough.
     
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  22. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    I think I was being a little too easy on them. I didn't want to break the QR.
     
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  23. SnakeCharmer

    SnakeCharmer iMTB Addict

    Location:
    Crescenta Valley
    Name:
    Mike, aka "Snake"
    Current Bike:
    Vassago/Trek
    Nah, its designed to handle the force.
     
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  24. Cyclotourist

    Cyclotourist iMTB Addict

    Location:
    Redlands
    Name:
    David
    Current Bike:
    Santa Cruz Chameleon
    If you ever see some Shimano skewers for sale cheap (any model, not just fancy ones), they are a solid upgrade. They have an internal cam which is protected and closes better. Doesn't get grit in it, and I think is built a bit stronger. Steel skewer, and steel clamping area means it'll last forever and not slip.
    Nothing worth running out and doing immediately, but something to keep an eye out for. They do it right!
     
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  25. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    Excellent!!!:geek: I will keep an eye out as I looove upgrades, thanks Cyclo. I had kind of contemplated a thru axle conversion, but it seems the consensus is they aren't any stronger.
     
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  26. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky

    Wow, I think you can see in the middle pic the QR isn't seated where it should be?
     
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  27. Cyclotourist

    Cyclotourist iMTB Addict

    Location:
    Redlands
    Name:
    David
    Current Bike:
    Santa Cruz Chameleon
    Thru axles are great! I won't buy a bike without them at this point. But unless your bike has modular drop outs (your Marin doesn't appear to), you can't convert. Just run what you have and keep collecting all the info and data points you can. Then in a year or so, spring for the big upgrade that has everything you want on it! Here's a good primer on quick-release design: https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/a20048321/3-quick-releases-that-wont-fail/
     
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  28. -ROCKY-

    -ROCKY- Member

    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    Name:
    Rocky
    Yeah that was my first regret about my bike, but I know I get waay ahead of myself lol. Thanks for the article Cyclo!
     
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  29. Cyclotourist

    Cyclotourist iMTB Addict

    Location:
    Redlands
    Name:
    David
    Current Bike:
    Santa Cruz Chameleon
    As they say, love the one you're with!
     
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  30. Grego

    Grego Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Fullerton
    Name:
    joe
    Current Bike:
    WFO9
    The middle pic looks good. Axle/qr is in the dropout as it should be. Got a pic of the drive side? if the drive side is not in the dropout all the way, it will tilt your wheel at the top towards the right, as in your 3rd pic.

    There are hubs/wheels with 10mm through axles that will fit your frame. Way stronger than a 5mm qr.
     
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