Going 1X with a granny gear..?

I rode today with just the utilizing just the granny gear (22t) and my 10 speed (2x10 RF Turbine)..didn't notice any cross threading issue. The flats seemed bearable in the high gear, I'm a slow poke, generally. Anyway, i'm thinking about doing a 1X just utilizing the granny gear as the only ring up front (try to save money - without buy the Wofltooth/1up kit)

It sound really appealing, but will I regret it later? (is it even possible to just convert the RF 2X just to the granny gear?) I'm in the granny gear on most climbs that get hard for me anyway. One thing of concern is if my cardio vascular fitness will be reduced in the long run?

 

You'll probably still want a narrow/wide chain ring for chain retention purposes. I did the easy/cheap 1x years back and was constantly dropping my chain on descents.
Going 1x9 forced me to climb in tougher gears. Your body should be able to adapt.

 

If you keep only the 22t yes, you'll regret it.

 

You'll probably drop chains if you don't use a specifically designed chain ring (unless you mount a guard).

But yeah, 22 teeth is mighty small up front. You'll spin out quickly once you get adapted.

 

Yes, you will not like running a 22t all the time. Even the weakest riders can get away with a 26/28t and a 42t cog.

I'd say do it right, or don't do it at all.

The chain will jump off the unramped/non-narrow wide ring.....even with a clutch RD.

 

And nobody makes a guard that will fit down to a 22t ring.

 

I'd spend the $60 or so for a 26t narrow-wide direct-mount ring to replace the spider and push a little harder in granny until you get your new cassette.

I still have 11-36 10-sp in back on a 29er, and with a 26t in front it works fine for all the trail riding I do (little/no flat). If I'm doing something with long flats I'll put the 2x spider back on and shift manually (downshift with toe, upshift requires dismount). I ran that setup for about 30 days on the divide and it worked fabulously.

 

What the heck is wrong with 2x10 if that's what's on there? IMO, unless you are a stud-horse bike rider, stick with the 2x10 until you can go full 1x11 or 1x12.

 

I share this sentiment even though my current bike is 1x11 (Other bike is 1x10). I generally feel that having the range of the 2x is better for any rider who isn't a racer.

That being said, I would try to get yourself closer to a 30t. The jump was tough but doable. This coming from a dude who wasn't and still isn't in good shape. The best part of the 1x was being able to run a cleaner cockpit.

 

I believe you asked about the 1x conversion awhile ago... It sounds like you're still interested! I get the appeal, but I have to agree with the others. 2x10 is fine, but if you're going to make the jump to 1x, do it right.

Based on your other posts, and my assumption of your fitness level, I'd spring for the smallest narrow/wide you can find and give it a go...

 

The absolute black 64bcd chain rings are quite awesome. They go on just about every crank and every bike (I suppose there are a few strange bikes that might have chain ring clearance issues with the 46mm chain line). The come in 28 and 30t and last quit a long time (around 1k miles). I like the 1lb weight loss of getting rid of the front 2x and less clutter on the bars. I think it's worth it.

 

Just get a Sunrace 11-42 (45 bux) and a 28T in the front. Wolf Tooth, North Shore Billet (36 bux!), and Absolute Black both make 64 bcd rings in 26 and 28T. Search eBay.

Keep in mind that if you do go with a 42T in the rear...you'll need to double check that your rear derailleur that can handle the larger cog.

 

I was ready for new chain and some rings so I decided to convert my XT 2x11 (11-42) to a 1x today. After a lot of reading I decided to go with the Oneup Shark 50T and 10T cluster and 30T ring. First ride today and really liking it so far but my left thumb still wanted to do something. I might be able to push a 32T just need to get more time to eval. Debated going the 50T route but the climbs are getting harder and at 64 I am not going to get much stronger. Bottom line is I am pleased . Below is a 2x XT 11-42 comparison to the Oneup mod. Hope this helps.

2x11 set up Granny is 24/42 = 57%
OneUp'd is 30/50 = 60%

2x11 low end 34/11 = 309%
OneUp'd 30/10= 300%

 

Yep, decided to try the SR 11-42 with the WT Goatlink (have a XT shadow786) and going with a RF NW 30T..hopefully got all the bases covered.

 

Let us know how it works out.

 

Finally saw the light. Watch out for skipping chain on the small cog on the SR cassette. I've had this issue with some of their 9 speed cassettes.

 

30 x 42 should get you to the top of some steep climbs! I hope it works well for you... Report back and let us know.

 

Copy..thanks..will provide updates..

 

As promised..some have ran it without the Goatlink, but seems without having a extended b-tension you will need this..just finished tuning the hi lo limits and b tension..shifts perfect but looks like when peddling backwards I will not be able to stop the chain from dropping on the rear cog in the lowest big cog..peddles fine from 9 on up.

 

Looks great! Now ride the sh!t outta it.

That does look like a big jump from the second biggest cog to the 42.

 

It is typical for 10 spd. with a 42t cog.

 

The gap looks big...but when you're riding...it really not that noticeable.

 

Yes, the gap is unnoticeable..at least for me. Went on my first ride with it yesterday. I noticed that I was more efficient with my shifting and started to peddle in higher gears on slight uphills..no more lollygagging around in the granny gear. I tried to save the 42t for when I really needed it. The speed during the flat sections was more than sufficient, I'm glad I went to 30t...anything more would've been more than I can chew. The bike seemed more nimble on the climbs, but could be because of the new chain/transmission combo.

 

I hated the range of my 2x10 because of the overlap. It's aggravating dealing with swapping the front gear and then trying to go up or down the right amount to compensate for it. I'm nowhere near a stud-horse rider but I was able to do most of the riding I do in the big ring, and I've never been able to use super low gears. I think I'd have to be a stud-horse to use those insane-rpm hamster gears. Of the 13-14 usable gears on 2x10, I only used 11-12, and the top two gears were primarily downhill only. So after doing all the math, I came up with a range that I thought I would like, bought a narrow wide 1x ring and realized there's almost no reason that I'd ever go back. I only lost two gears on the bottom that I never used, and one on top that I only used downhill. I love the linear shifting, I love the lack of crap hanging off the bike, and I love the way it looks.

Come to think of it, I used to ride 1x6 in the '80s and that wasn't too bad.

 

Are you using an adapter, washers, or do 104BDC raceface cranks allow for 30T chain rings?

 

Race Face 104 bcd 30t rings come with chain ring bolt spacers that push the ring onboard a few mm's to get the chain to clear the spider.

 

Well, actually there's a slight offset on the chainring itself to clear the chainring tabs on the 30t..here's a really good article on it that explains it pretty well..that I read backwards and forwards before making my decision. (mine did not come with spacers)

To paraphrase "Race Face was able to offer a 30 tooth version by offsetting the ring slightly to sit inboard of the crank tabs."

If you have a 2x system (at least RF) you can either use single chainring bolts (like me) or utilize the longer chainring bolts (that was previously attached to your RF granny gear on the 2x) and use the chainring tabs. I liked the cleaner look and went with the single chainring bolts..hope this makes sense.

 

Sorry, to answer this, yes the RF Turbine cranks allows for the 30T chainring..no adaptors/washers..there's space between the spider and chain because of the slight offset in the chainring itself..pretty cool.

 

hmmm... I might need to go 30T on my Bronson.

 

Like Arnold says " Jus' doooo it!"