BB height and pedal strikes?

I doubt anyone will ever completely master pedal strikes. I am in the same boat, I ride more cautiously and watch closely for what is ahead.

The pedal strike thing just slows us down, IMO, but that's not actually such a bad thing because it means that for the most part, we are concerned more for our safety than for our strava times through that pedal strikey section.

 

Actually, it's not science. If it was science it would be a repeatable test removing all other variables. Basic math says a lower BB equals more pedal strikes. But as you should be changing your technique to accommodate, it isn't repeatable. I know I choose different lines if I am on my CX bike vs my Enduro.

 

Today is supposed to be the day of the beginning of recovery. I do feel a lot better. Looks like I’m going to need knee surgery as I think I retore my meniscus. That is an easy surgery so of little concern.

 

Glad to hear that you are feeling better Mikie! The body's ability to heal is truly a miracle when you think about it. The man upstairs was watching out for you and he still is. Too many things fell into place after your crash to be just chance. Thoughts and prayers.

 

The bottom bracket height on my Troy is 13.3 inches and like others I have notice a lot of pedal strikes. Like Mikie, I try to be aware of what is in front of me and try keep the pedals level.

On my Kona, I put a 150mm fork on a frame that calls for a 120mm fork. So I essentially raised the BB and have not had any pedal strikes on it since I have built it up in October.

 

Everybody here knows I’m a firm believer in the man upstairs, and you are right, there was way too much perfection in how the event unfolded. I’m thankful and praise God!

 

You’re one positive mo fo Mikie!

 

Right on! I’ve had many crashes and close call where I KNEW it could have been much worse! I have the perfect riding friend

 

I wonder if I can do similar to my SC 5010?!

 

Amen brothah

 

It

It looks like people have done it and like the results.

https://m.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=174534

 

I was thinking of increasing the fork travel on my Remedy from 140 to 150mm for a lil boost in height. Add in some 29er wheels (it's a 650b bike) and I'm up there in the clouds somewhere.

 

It hasn’t been a problem for me riding in OC, but last week in Colorado I was striking constantly.

 

Just found it, thanks!!

 

I googled 150mm on a 5010, and the Pinkbike link was the first one. There are more links. I tried the PB link and it worked. Here it is again

https://m.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=174534

 

I think about them on thin exposed trails, don't want to be hugging the inside and then drop a pedal a get ejected over the edge.

I also am conscious in root rocks etc where I can. There are a couple spots on my regular ride where I have a full rhythm for cleaning

 

Great news! Can you recommend a new 150 fork?

 

Pike or Fox 34. Standard fare. Both are good. Pike is a little burlier. I would say Marzocchi 350, because that was the best air fork I've ever ridden, but sadly, they don't exist anymore.

Anybody here wanna loan Sara a spare Pike 150 to try? I have a spare DVO Diamond, but it's 160 - and that would be way over-forking the SOLO (oops, I mean 5010).

PS - if your fork is currently 130, I would try 140mm first. The steering will get lighter, and you may not like going 20 mm.

PSS - I've been a fan of overforking bikes since my first Yeti 575. 5.75" travel in back, but came with 140mm in front. I went to a Fox 36, then a Marzocchi 55 - both at 160mm and the bike handled great. My Knolly Endorphin was 140 rear, 160 front. However, I am tall and can put a lot of downward pressure on my stem while climbing to keep the front end from wandering.

 

Good idea on a gradual bump up as I still feel a little clumsier climbing with this bike compared to my old bike. Maybe I can lock out the FS on longer climbs?
I’ll look at both of those forks now!
Thanks Chris.

 

Sara I don’t know what fork is on your bike but a 10-20 mm increase can usually be achieved by just an air shaft change. It’s like a $35 part and takes a little know how to change. Call Fadi and find out.

I agree with @herzalot that a 20mm change may be a bit much.

 

Locking out the fork for climbing is only an advantage on pavement, or out of the saddle sprints. A little sag on that fork will help it track the ground better and keep your head angle manageable. So not really an essential feature, if you ask me. And you didn't. But I chimed in anyway.

 

Chime away Chris, sometimes I feel like a newbie even though I’ve been riding for over 10 yrs..kind of embarrassing

 

I’ll contact our Fadi manana! Thanks Tom

 

A scientific theory is a well-substantiated explanation of some aspect of the natural world, based on a body of facts that have been repeatedly confirmed through observation and experiment. Such fact-supported theories are not "guesses" but reliable accounts of the real world...As in, a low bottom bracket will eventually result in a pedal strikes.

Nice to see us trying to get our Varaxis on...

 

@doublewide Bottom bracket height is very subjective and not measurable. It is an emotional, gut feeling and a very personal relationship between your perception of height and your philosophy of "what is ground?" It is what you perceive it to be, completely existential and not scientifically...

...wait, oh shoot, I think I am talking about clothing choices. My bad. Carry on.

 

Not bashing anyone here but I think we are just using the wrong terminology...
A Theory is just that, a theory. Adding the word “Scientific” in front of it does not make it more valid. A theory is nothing more than a guess. A scientific theory is nothing more that a scientific guess based on science that “potentially” could lead to a conclusion.

I don’t think that phrase relates to the subject. I “think” what you were trying to say was “Mathematically” a Lower bottom bracket will result in a higher probability of Pedal Strike. Which I totally agree with.

@mountaingirl sara , I would be cautious in changing the geometry of your bike. As much as I love my Hightower and wish the bottom bracket was higher... it is what it is. I’m not going to blame my crash for example on the geometry of my new bike. I’m going to learn from it, adapt, and then go hammer differently.

Like a lot of guys here have stated, it’s one of those things you now take in to account for and develop ride skills around.

When I started riding the Hightower, I was locking out my rear shock to reduce the fluffy climbing aspect (which raised my B.B. height due to less sag), then I got used to the fluff, and now I’m back to locking it out. That will help with a lower B.B. on the climbs. I try to keep the fork light and drive through the rear wheel. I agree with @herzalot that locking your fork is great for road climbs, and I do lock mine out on road climbs.

I say, grow with the bikes geometry. Adjust saddle position and handlebar height and distance to grab more climbing capability.

I was watching Cathy climb the other day and realized I had her seat waaaayy too far back. She was pedaling from behind. After moving it forward she said it made all the difference! She didn’t know what she didn’t know. She relies on me to know this stuff.

I hope this helps!

 

4:30am, I’m guessing you couldn’t sleep?
Wonderful deduction, my dear Watson! You have a talant for putting thoughts to paper.
I still may try more travel on the front end, but will move up slowly. And a good bike fitting would be wise as well.
Hope you’re feeling better today Mikie

 

Funny the Low Bottom brackets are taking a beatin because of pedal strikes but nobody's complaining about them when they're railing through a turn or railing through a turn on a steep downhill and feeling connected and low not high and ready to be a ejected OTB.

 

I wonder if they are too low? Especially with droppers, maybe they could go up a smidgen?